THE MOST DECEPTIVE WALL IN THE MOURNES
The recent development of the East Face of Lower Cove has seen a series of top quality trad lines added. This deceptively steep wall has been loosley discussed as an ideal sport venue over the years. But with no sport climbers and strong local trad ethics, these ideas clearly would not work. But given time it has proved itself worthy as a trad venue. Most of the obvious lines have now been completed but there are a few projects that still remain.
HISTORY
The first route was Les Jeunes Filles en Jupes d'Ete (Aka The French Route), E2 5b, back in 1980 by Alan Currans. This amazing 30m pitch steeply ascends the face just right of the arete at the left side of the crag. A pumpy little test piece for the grade which has become a classic.
The surrounding early routes are situated at either end of the crag avoiding the main central section. Unfortunately the routes on the right suffer from seepage a lot of the time and are not popular. The main face has only had a new lease of life in the last year and a half with bold steep lines being the order of the day.
Sean Villanueva got the ball rolling in 2008 by adding the first new route in three years on a cold April afternoon. 'Rokkenjager' E7 6c (photo above) is a steep and commiting line that Sean headpointed and inspired Ricky Bell to have a flash attempt straight after. Ricky flashed the route by the skin of his teeth.
"I got beta for the bottom bouldery section then Sean looked me in the eye and told me about a good jug at half height to rest on after the crux and the good gear in the break above it. He had a slightly serious look when he said this. By the time I got there I was completely pumped and way too run out to be happy about the jug I was about to reach. The hold was flat and the gear was not good. Sean had tried to kill me! I sketched the rest past the big hollow flakes near the top and a wonder camalot before the rounded top out. So psyched, amazing route. "
With other projects in the pipeline the wall was getting more attention in one year than it had in the 29 years since the first route was done.
In October 08 Dan O'Neill put up the awesome '5th Ape' an excellent E5 with a tricky start and a steep pumpy finish. The route then got five unusually quick repeats for the Mournes and its reputation was set, another classic was born.
A week later Andy Marshall headpointed Easy Lover, E7 6c, a hard new line working its way up flakes to a right traverse on a steep wall through a technical crux. Andy's sequence involved skipping a cam which produced an interesting run-out, Andy said afterwards "i just didn't have the gas to hang about back then, if in doubt run it out, i think that's how it goes" good job he stayed on! (Photo above).
Ricky Bell had his eye on several lines and started with a line left of Infidels. In March 09 he attempted to lead the route but with a big run-out above a sky hook and an unnerving atmosphere he opted out and vowed to come back fresh!
Four days later the conditions were good and Ricky climbed the route with confidence to produce Freshly Baked, E7 6b climbed after abseil inspection. The next day Ricky cleaned a new line to the right of Easy Lover. The crux section was wet so he turned his attention to Easy Lover. A slightly different sequence at the crux allowed a good small cam to be placed cutting the fall potential in half. Ricky repeated Easy Lover and suggested it was one of the best E7's in the Mournes.
On 25/6/09 Eddie Barbour added a direct start to Infidels going at E5 6a. Once again the ground is steep and the DS avoids the original traverse in from the right. This was the last edition to the East Face before a summer of rain and midges.
Watch this space!
Craigy
